We spent 5 weeks in Ajijic Mexico and in the nearby town of San Antonio Tlayacapan along the shore of Lake Chapala. The Lake Chapala area and Ajijic in particular are popular destinations for US and Canadian retirees, especially during the winter months. Many services and businesses cater to the expat community, and English is readily spoken. It’s also pretty pricey relative to the other areas we’ve visited so far in Mexico, but still very affordable compared to the USA, and especially so if you put a little effort into managing your budget.
Things I love About Ajijic Mexico
Overall, it’s quieter than the other places we’ve visited in Mexico. It can still be noisy. It’s Mexico, so expect some noise, but during our stay in Mexico, I used my earplugs less in Ajijic and San Antonio Tlayacapan than anywhere else.
We encountered few gringos in Puerto Vallarta, less in Guadalajara, and almost none in Morelia, but there are plenty of Gringos in Ajijic. It was nice to be around fellow gringos again. Nice. Not great, just nice.
It’s quite easy to go out and navigate the day almost entirely in English. Some basic Spanish will help, but it doesn’t feel necessary. I can live without fumbling through Spanish! That’s great, because it’s easier to communicate. The drawback is that the ease of falling into speaking English makes learning Spanish that much more difficult.
The weather is terrific, or at least in January and February it is. I guess it rains more in the summer, but I don’t know, hopefully I’ll find out. What I know so far is that the weather is great.
I don’t like to drive, and I don’t even like to be in a car or bus if I can avoid it. We took the bus one time during our entire 5 weeks in Ajijic and San Antonio Tlayacapan. It’s a very walkable place if you like to walk, and I like to walk. The cobblestone streets and narrow sidewalks are a bit challenging, so if you have mobility restrictions, your opinion will likely be the opposite of mine.
I love Mexican food, and Ajijic has plenty of good Mexican food, but it has other options as well, and I like that.
Favorite Spots to Eat in Ajijic/San Antonio Tlayacapan
Merendero Lake Burgers Not fancy, small place. Good burgers and beer and the best chips and guacamole.
Laboratorio Singular Specialty Coffee Super small place, super good coffee.
Chile Verde Mexican Restaurant Right off the town square, very good food at good prices, but gets busy.
La Pecena Seafood Restaurant It’s pricier than I like, but we still went 4 times while we were in San Antonio Tlayacapan for 3 weeks, so that tells you something.
Panaderia Scandinavia Bakery Good coffee, great cookies, and the best bread. Try the Thyme and Olive loaf. Cafe-Bar El Roble Mexican Restaurant Unassuming little place on the second floor near the movie theater in Ajijic. Great staff and great prices. Try the Sopa Azteca and the enchiladas suizas.
One of the best reasons to come to Mexico is the incredible food. Here’s a blog and video featuring tips about dining out in restaurants in Mexico.
Is Ajijic Mexico Worth a Visit?
If you’re looking for Mexico-light, you can find it in Ajijic. The town is a mix of Mexicans and foreign expats. It’s a beautiful town with an old colonial feel and narrow cobblestone streets. It looks decidedly Mexican, but the Gringo influence is omnipresent. Before our arrival in Ajijic, I studied and practiced Spanish everyday, but once we arrived in Ajijic, my studies faltered. Gringos abound, and the English language is everywhere, and many native Mexicans we met spoke fluent in English.
The sidewalks, cafes, restaurants, and stores brim with older gringos. It’s easy to find a community if you are a foreigner, and especially if you are of retirement age. The Lake Chapala Society is a hub for expat activity. There are many gated communities and neighborhoods filled with year-round and part-time gringos from Canada and the US.
Stores carry many familiar items you might find north of the border, and it’s easy to find non-mexican dining options. Many expats buy property and settle year-round, but many are snowbirds. It’s a comfortable place to be if you want to live in Mexico, but still feel connected with your fellow countrymen from the north.
Is Ajijic Expensive?
I liked the Ajijic area, but I definitely spent more money. The non-Mexican dining options are nice, but definitely harder on the wallet. During our previous month in Morelia, Mexico, my ATM withdrawals totaled around $400 USD. In Ajijic, over 5 weeks, I withdrew about $1000. We could have spent less money, but it’s easy to spend more; the options are there, and they ‘re nice, and it’s still a deal when you compare it to what we pay in the USA.
Plus, we spent 3 of the 5 weeks in the Ajijic area house sitting, so we saved a lot of money on lodging, which made it easy for us to rationalize our slight increase in spending. And after months in Guadalajara and Morelia and a week in Puerto Vallarta, it was a nice change to speak English with strangers again. But it was less exciting. There was less concern, less of a feeling of adventure, I won’t say it was boring, because it was a fun place to be. But it felt very safe. That’s a good thing right? And by safe, I don’t mean safe from danger, because I feel safe everywhere we’ve been in Mexico, or at least as safe as I generally feel in the USA. By safe I mean…everything seemed more predictable, and easier to figure out. It’s Mexico, but Mexico-light.
If you’re interested in Mexico, and you’re older, or if you’re worried about being overwhelmed by Spanish, or if you’re looking for a good spot to escape a northern winter, then Ajijic might be for you.
CG and I are traveling long term in Mexico, but we are only carrying the things we need. We’ve been traveling now for more than a year each carrying a single Osprey Porter 30 Travel Backpack. Nothing makes travel more enjoyable than traveling light. You can find more info about our travel packs and check the current prices for these packs on Amazon.
Thanks for checking out our Mexico Travels!
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